Jonas Klünemann

ongoing project: pachamama en los andes

Due to the remoteness and the arduous routes to the next town, life in the middle of the Andes in Bolivia is largely regulated autonomously by its inhabitants. There are three rules in particular that govern the lives of the people: "Ama Sua, Ama Llulla y Ama Qhella", which in the indigenous Quechua language means "don't steal, don't lie and don't be lazy". Pachamama - Mother Earth - is responsible for everything else. Lama fetuses are sacrificed and ceremonies are held for her, music is played to ask her for rain and food is prepared in the earth for her to partake of. By chewing coca leaves, a level of communication is established with Pachamama, offerings are made to appease and satisfy her. She sees with the eyes of the animals and hears with the ears of the goblins. She is everywhere.

People rarely approach the Phina Laguna at 4,200 m.a.s.l.: the lagoon is cursed and when it is very foggy, the goblins come from the underworld and try to seduce them.

/ picture taken 13.11.2021

On the way to the neighbouring community: The 2-hour hike leads through impassable terrain on narrow paths and along steep slopes. Tools and coca are carried in the colourful »Ajayo« cloths on their backs.

/ picture taken 06.02.2018

Andes mountain range

/ picture taken 13.11.2021

The men come together regularly to ask Pachamama for rain for their fields by singing and playing the flute.

/ picture taken 25.12.2017

Coca is used in everyday life and religious rituals alike: it sharpens the senses, gives strength and reduces feelings of hunger. In rituals, the leaves are used to reach a spiritual level with Pachamama.

/ picture taken 17.12.2017

Men from different communities come together to discuss the use of a water source in the mountains. Coca and cigarettes are important utensils: if the coca tastes sweet, the negotiations will go well and the joint project will be successful. However, if the taste is bitter, one should be careful.

/ picture taken 06.02.2018

Llamas roam freely on the mountain slopes, but stay within a manageable radius so that their owners can always find them. They have a special position in the world of the Quechuas: on the one hand, they are used for wool and meat production, on the other hand, they are sacred, as they are accustomed to the harsh reality of life in the highlands of the Andes like hardly any other animals of this size. When offerings are made to Pachamama, llama fetuses are ceremonially burnt; when houses are built, llamas are worked into the foundations.

/ picture taken 14.11.2021

The village of „Machaca“ is situated at 3500 m.a.s.l. altitude. There is a market, a church and a school. The communities around it consist more of loose clusters of houses.

/ picture taken 28.02.2018

Dona Isabel is a so-called »cholita«.

/ picture taken 22.01.2022

Don Angulo owns a small farm where he lives with his family. During the daily work on the farm and in the fields, Don Angulo chews coca leaves.

/ picture taken 22.01.2022

The village leaders from different communities come together and discuss with their community members how to proceed with a man who has stolen something. In the countryside, the indigenous law is that criminals are burnt alive with the maximum penalty. The thief got away with a few lashes.

/ picture taken 27.12.2017

After a successful potato harvest, Pachamama is thanked with a communal meal and a so-called »pampaku« is prepared: For this purpose, a hole in the ground is dug, in which first a fire is made and later vegetables and meat are prepared. Later, everyone sits around the hole in the ground and eats the food from the hole, symbolically sharing with Pachamama.

/ picture taken 18.11.2017

Mostly pigs are kept for sale. Only on special occasions is the pig slaughtered itself.

/ picture taken 09.03.2018

The village chief has a cow slaughtered at Carnival - one of the biggest festivals, also in the Bolivian Andes - to prepare food for the whole community.

/ picture taken 02.03.2019

A village chief holds his sceptre in his hand, which symbolises his authority. A condor - one of the most important animals of the Quechuas - adorns this sceptre; like no other animal it stands for power and strength.

/ picture taken 08.11.2021

Don José drinks »chicha«, a home-brewed maize beer. Chicha is important for all festive moments in the community and is a unifying element: There is only one drinking bowl, which is passed around clockwise and from which everyone drinks. Before drinking, one pours a sip on the floor to remember Pachamama.

/ picture taken 22.01.2022

Messages and wishes are embroidered on the »Ayajo« cloth. These can be symbols, patterns or written words. They are very individually designed and every family has one of them.

/ picture taken 05.07.2022

Dona Maura in her garden in front of the clothesline where her »ajayo« cloths and her »polleras« - her skirts - dry. The »pollera« is the crucial element for a woman who wants to be a cholita.

/ picture taken 21.01.2022

To honour Pachamama, a llama foetus was ritually burnt. For this purpose, it was doused with spirit and covered with coca leaves into which wishes were whispered beforehand and which should find their way to Pachamama through the fire and be heard by her.

/ picture taken 13.12.2021

Andes mountain range

/ picture taken 15.01.2022

publication in LN 584 I Februar 2023

participation CSDP I 2022